The present day arrival into Hong Kong is into a new airport on reclaimed land at Chek Lap Kok, west of Hong Kong Island.
Due to the new airport's location, it subsequently required a new underground Mass Transit Railway, a new Western Harbour (road) Tunnel and the largest double-deck suspension bridge in the world to connect the airport back to the Island. The finances were there to fund it. For example, at a cost of HK$1.5 billion for 'Pathfinder' and 'Sojourner', the expedition craft sent to Mars, this was apparently only one eighth the cost of the new passenger terminal at Chek Lap Kok.
Chek Lap Kok airport has an annual capacity of 35 million passengers (11 million more than Kai Tak) and two million tonnes of cargo. The airport site is 1,250 hectares - or approximately two miles by three miles of reclaimed land. The passenger terminal itself is over 1 km long to enable 60 aircraft to dock. The railway to the Airport is 34km long, passes over two bridges and a new tunnel and is projected to carry 260,000 passengers daily, reaching Hong Kong Island in 23 minutes. The new Western Harbour Crossing, completed just before the handover, allows for three lanes of traffic each way with a maximum capacity of 180,000 vehicles daily.
The previous arrival into Hong Kong was a flight into Kai Tak airport and was one of the most exciting arrivals anywhere. The aeroplane flew in so low that you could see people's laundry hanging out of their windows. It then turned sharply for a landing on a thin strip of tarmac which projected precariously into the harbour. Some aeroplanes had even shot over the end into the harbour itself. Unfortunately, upon landing, the 'smell of money' made famous in James Clavell's novel on Hong Kong "Nobel House", had been overshadowed by the smell of raw sewage emanating from the nullah as Kowloon's daily human waste is pumped into the harbour. One was then confronted with an airport bus ride through the choking streets of Kowloon with drab dreary sorry looking sweatshops and apartments so close together that people can see each other eating and working as the day goes on. Finally one arrives at the waterfront to catch the Star Ferry across the polluted harbour. The boat sways back and forth as it gingerly traverses to Hong Kong Island. The waves caused by excessive reclamation of the harbour and a subsequent narrowing of the channel making the journey more precarious. The new arrival therefore is a vast improvement.
1.2 The Skyline
Hong Kong's skyline is one of the best sights of any city that you may come across. Tall slick steel, glass and marble edifices rise out of this barren rock. So many buildings are being continually rebuilt that the skyline changes every six months. Many have been designed by internationally famous architects, such as the Bank of China by Chinese American IM Pei (who also designed the Louvre pyramid), the Hong Kong Bank Headquarters Building by Sir Norman Foster and Partners (who also designed the new airport terminal building in Chep Lap Kok).
1.3 Feng Shui
The study of all elements on earth in the search of true harmony, otherwise known as Feng Shui - literally Wind-Water - has great influence in Hong Kong. The Geomancer (the Feng Shui Master) will decree when one should get married, on what day one should move in to one's new home or office, which way one should face when working, even when to start work on site, for example. Before every site start or office opening there is a ceremony called "By San" where the Gods are blessed with joss-sticks and oranges and a whole pig is eaten in their honour. Feng Shui can effect one's design of a building significantly. Beams should not pass over the centre of the bedroom for fear of "cutting" the occupant in half in their sleep and so giving rise to stomach aches...buildings should be orientated so money flows in but not out...the building should be designed as a "whole" with no "cut outs"... a lot of hocus pocus certainly, but many western companies when in Hong Kong change their ways, just in case...Marks and Spencer have allegedly buried gold coins under their floor to usher in more of them...it seems to have worked until recently...
Numbers can also have particularly good or bad luck associated with them. The number "2" also sounds like "easy" in Cantonese and so is particularly sought after. A vehicle registration plate numbered "2" went at auction for HK$ 900,000 a few years ago. Every telephone number in Hong Kong begins with 2. The number "8" is associated with riches and nearly every telephone number also includes an 8. - "Easy Riches!". On the down side however, the number "4" carries with it connotations of death. Hence many buildings omit floors numbered 4, 14, 24 - and 13 as this is unlucky in the West - so a building that is 30 storeys high is actually only 26 storeys!
1.4 Festivals
Although the local religion is a sort of mix of Buddhism/Confucianism/Taoism, (Hong Kong does have the biggest bronze Buddha in Asia), the Chinese are generally more interested in superstition than in religion and in devils rather than God. At Chinese New Year, The Wong Tai Sin Temple is crammed full of people lighting sweet smelling josticks and offering oranges to the spirits, wishing for wealth and happiness in the new year. This is followed by a visit to the fortune teller to see if the spirits have been pleased by the offerings. One greets one another with "Kung Hei Fat Choy!"-literally "Happy New Year and may you make a fortune!"
There are many other Chinese festivals celebrated through the year. The second most popular after the New Year is the Tuen Ng Dragonboat Festival, held on the 5th of the 5th month every year. Here Dragonboats, filled with 20 or more paddlers, a steersman and drummer battle it out to take the coveted trophy. From its origins as a mystical beat of paddles on the water to scare away the fish from eating the celebrated poet, Qu Yuan, who drowned himself in the 3rd century BC, it has now developed into an International sport, with the winners being Olympic standard kayakers or full-time paddlers.
1.5 What's in a name?
Hong Kong is unusual for many things, not least of all people's names. The locals have their own Chinese names of course and wish to have a "Western" name. Rather than merely choosing one of the many established ones it has become fashionable to make up your own. It is not uncommon to meet people called Eureka, Fanny, Psyche, Borus, Icy, Rio, Hymen, Vagina, Anus and incredibly, even a Hitler Wong! Unusual names are not confined to people as the "Good Luck Thai Food" restaurant demonstrates.
1.6 Pirates
The South China Sea provided many opportunities for pirates in the past and still does today. High powered speed boats have however taken over from Junks as the favoured mode of transport. Stolen Mercedes-Benz cars are regularly shipped from Hong Kong to China, where they are a sought after item. There have also been hi-jackings of the regular Macau to Hong Kong Jetfoil. The ferry was carrying the HK$10M winnings from the week-end gambling at the Casinos back to Hong Kong. The pirate was arrested in Hong Kong waters and sentenced to 20 years. However, his associates were arrested in Chinese waters and executed. A sad reminder of the harshness of rule across the water.
1.7 Executions in China
In China in 1995 there were 600 executions for drug related crimes and there are typically more than 2000 executions every year, with many observers such as Amnesty International estimating more. In fact in 1996 following the "Strike Hard" campaign, 2,250 criminals had been executed by firing squad and 245,000 had been arrested. One execution of a murder and robbery gang was recently carried out in Shenzhen Sports Stadium - and more than 2,000 people (spectators?) attended. This does not address the causes of the crimes, which have been noted as the chaos in the legal system, which is lagging the development of the booming economy, and the increasing polarity between rich and poor - both factors only serving to encourage corruption. One can only hope that this does not have an influence in Hong Kong.
1.8 Triad Organisations
Originally formed by five Buddhist monks to defend the Ming Dynasty from the Manchus, it has now developed into an international crime organisation involved in racketeering, blackmail and drug trafficking. Traditionally, members in a Triad would apparently go by names such as "Lodge Master"(head), "Master of Incense" (deputy), "Red Staff"(sargeant major), "White Fan"(sargeant), "Straw Sandals"(messenger) and "Forty-
Nines"(private). Apparently 6 of 36 life and death vows refer to members who hold police or government positions. A policeman was recently found guilty in a HK$1.5M cocaine trafficking deal to finance his gambling debts. The Sun Yee On and 14K triads supposedly clashed in a queue for the sale of a new apartment development.
1.9 Suzie Wong
Wanchai, made famous in the 1950's after Richard Mason's book "The World of Suzie Wong", is now no longer the centre of prostitution in Hong Kong. The prostitutes have been driven out to seady Mongkok, on Kowloon side. The girlie bars that still operate in Wanchai are sparsely attended, and are apparently now mostly a cover for triad money laundering operations. The government has recently announced new anti-triad legislation which has increased sentences for triad related activities in an attempt to curb this crime.
1.10 ICAC
The Independent Council Against Corruption had been kept busy prior to the handover, with Civil Servants allegedly been looking to cash in. It was hoped that this would die down after June 97. Particularly given China's track record on dealing with their criminals.
1.11 ABC-BBC-CBC
American Born Chinese - ABC's, British Born Chinese - BBC's and Canadian Born Chinese - CBC's "return" to the Hong Kong in their search for wealth and some, a connection to their Motherland in search of their roots. Finding themselves not totally accepted in the West and finding sometimes to their dismay that they are not totally accepted here either by the Hong Kong Chinese. They are in fact of course, Western people and
find acceptance with the ex-pats here, or with each other. (Some refer to themselves as Bananas - yellow on the outside and white on the inside). What a crying shame it is that Westerners back home cannot accept them as easily.
1.12 II's
There are still approximately 20,000 Vietnamese boat refugees in various camps in Hong Kong. Some have been living in the camps for so long that they now have families. Children know only of a life behind barbed wire in tin sheds. Despite the awful conditions, repatriation has been steadfastly resisted leading to rioting in certain instances. The Government had promised the PRC that all refugees will be
removed before the Handover, but this proved to be too difficult.
1.13 Passports
Passport applications closed on 30 March 1996 for the BDTC Passport (British Dependent Territories Citizens) and queues miles long were formed to get it. Once obtained, then one is eligible to apply for the BNO (British National Overseas) Passport. There were even ex-pats in the cue who are hoping that this will help their case in staying in Hong Kong after the handover should things take a turn for the worse.
1.14 Localisation
The localisation policy implemented by the Patten Administration prior to the handover was declared unlawful, because it breached the Bill of Rights. These included demotion of officers switching to local terms, restrictions on promotion and consideration of an inability to speak Chinese when deciding a persons rank. The courts decided that there was nothing unlawful in localisation itself, but the ways in which it had been implemented.
1.15 Fishing Communities
Incredibly enough, there still exist some small fishing communities on the outlying islands. Here the fisherfolk live in very basic conditions - in tin sheds built precariously on wooden stilts on the marshlands or at the edge of the sea. Ideal for smuggling, unhygienic and dangerous although wonderfully picturesque. Current government policy is to phase out these shanty villages and replace them with modern 30 storey tower blocks. Neither the locals nor the tourist trade want this to disappear and there have been demonstrations against it.
1.16 Hong Kong (In)digestion
The sound of gilt clad tai tais (wives) clacking Cantonese into their mobile phones while tucking into their dim-sum (small dumplings) has become more common than that of genteel elegant gilt edged tea cups chinking in their saucers while the string quartet plays in the balcony, although this is still possible to hear in the Territory's (or rather the SAR's) favourite hotel, The Peninsula.
Hong Kong has long been known for its unusual foods available to eat, if not digest. Bear's and Tiger's paw (sex stimulants) is a particular favourite while snake soup occurs only when in season. Bird's nest soup is formed from the saliva of a sea swallow, while shark's fin and chicken's feet are both delicacies in some way. Dried fish, dried mushrooms, flattened ducks and "1000 year old eggs" are also available. The most improbable of all is the aborted foetuses in soup, said to improve skin tone and cure asthma. A little ginger and garlic are required to mask the smell of rotting flesh. At the uproar in 1995 when there was an increase of foetuses imported from the Mainland, due no doubt in part to the one family-one child policy, it was discovered that Hong Kong had no legislation to forbid the eating of foetuses. That a society would require this particular legislation is a wonder.
1.17 Fashion
The garment factories have all but disappeared from Hong Kong, having relocated across the border in China, where labour is significantly cheaper. Copy clothing of famous designer labels are still available, including the "Made in Italy label". The streets are lined with shops carrying wares from Armani, Moschino, Gucci, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, DKNY. And so the lust for materialism continues.
1.18 Suits and posers
In Lan Kwai Fong, the area in Hong Kong where all the celebrities, posers and suits hang out in the evenings, it is estimated that 80,000 people eat and drink in this area and approximately HK$50M is taken on credit cards alone every week. A phenomenal amount of money - particularly as this is only two streets in size, crammed full of bars and restaurants.
1.19 Pollution
Today, Hong Kong has the unenviable distinction of being the most polluted city on the planet (depending on which criteria one uses). Pollution levels are measured and monitored in much the same way as the Weather. The Air Pollution Index (API) lists highs and lows over the Territory and the charming announcer advises asthma sufferers to stay home. On occasion, the index has been known to hit 121, an index of 100 being dangerously high. In July'97, a number of beaches were closed temporarily due to high levels of untreated sewage found in the water. Doctors have advised the public to have the Hepatitis A innoculation as a precaution before swimming in the waters of Hong Kong.
1.20 Salespersons
Salespersons in Hong Kong are a curious breed. The shop assistants do not appear to want to sell you anything, let you try anything on, or know anything about the product you are thinking of buying. The public buys so much anyway the assistants only need to know how to collect money, which they are able to do admirably well.
1.21 HK Sevens
The Hong Kong Sevens Rugby Tournament in March every year is The Event of Hong Kong. Teams from all over the world compete in a 7-a-side 7 minutes each way game of rugby on a full size pitch. A fantastic new Stadium has been built for the occasion and it is a spectacle to witness. Scores of 75-0 occur which is some feat over such a short space of time. Most spectators (all Western - barely a Chinese in sight) drink alcohol until they are stupidly and leglessly drunk - one "fan" proudly boasting that he expected to drink over 100 pints over the weekend. There have been however, some incredible games of rugby, for those lucky enough to remember. In 1998, there were to be huge financial rewards for the winners, adding to its attraction. If the rewards are as huge following the financial crisis remains to be seen.
1.22 Hong Kong's Success
Hong Kong has transformed from a "useless barren rock" to quote Queen Victoria, to one of the wealthiest places on the planet in 150 years. Its formula for success can be put down to in principle, a laissez-faire attitude of the government with few controls over development, a free port, low taxes (maximum 15%), an attitude for quick profit and sheer hard work - with many locals working long hours. Its economy has traditionally been based on exports, rather than on sales to its domestic market.
The Beijing Government has always operated banks, shops, stores etc in Hong Kong as part of the revenue income to China. Hong Kong is China's link to the outside world and the Beijing Government wants it to remain so. Even after the Communists came to power in 1949 and the subsequent ejection of all foreigners in Shanghai, Mao Tse Tung ordered his troops to leave Hong Kong alone.
A large influx of Chinese immigrants came across the border and thus Hong Kong was transformed from a small port into a large industrial centre, swelling to two and a half million by 1951. The US embargo on Chinese goods sold through Hong Kong during the Korean War forced Hong Kong to manufacture its own goods using its ready supply of cheap labour and thus the Territory came into its financial own.
Cheap labour is no longer readily available and goods are manufactured in China or elsewhere in the region. Indeed, due to the scarcity of a skilled workforce, construction labourers were imported from the UK to help on the new Airport Terminal and the HK Government was financially able to foot the bill.
All the land is owned by the crown and then sold by lease to the highest bidder. Prices keep on going up and now Hong Kong has the highest rental costs in the world. Development is at such a pace (and seemingly unlikely to slow down) that the economy is now driven by it. Hong Kong is no longer an old world charm city of graceful colonial buildings, but rather now has developed into a global one. The graceful colonial buildings have been transformed into shimmering steel and glass skyscrapers. There are more Rolls-Royce's per head of population than any other city.
Power in Hong Kong has in the past been centred around the Hong's of old - The Jockey Club, Jardine's, HK Bank, Swire's, Wheelock and the Kadoorie's. With the Governor coming in last.
1.23 Some thoughts on the future
I never think of the future. It comes soon enough.- Einstein
And that was how it was for most of Hong Kong's residents for most of the time. There was little point in worrying about something that was going to happen - whatever it was that was going to. Life had to go on. However as the handover came closer, more and more people put their safeguards overseas, as a precaution. Many others went and got overseas passports as a further safety precaution.
The British Government had cause for concern and pushed hard for legislation to be put through to safeguard Hong Kong's inhabitants, with regard to the rule of Law, Human Rights and freedoms. This it managed with some success,
despite many arguments with the Chinese in the Joint Liaison Group (JLG) meetings.
In pushing his reforms through, Patten put Hong Kong's transition onto the World Stage.
Introduction ||||
Part One ||||
Part Two ||||
Part Three ||||
Part Four ||||
Part Five ||||
Appendices
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